County Sligo, in north-western Ireland, is a land where mountains seem to rise directly from legend. Between the tabular outline of Benbulben, the Atlantic beaches and the tranquil waters of Lough Gill, its landscapes possess a rare visual power.
This natural setting profoundly influenced the work of William Butler Yeats. The Irish poet, who received the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1923, spent part of his childhood in the region and drew several of his most famous images from it. But Sligo tells a much older story: its megalithic cemeteries, cairns and caves bear witness to almost 6,000 years of human presence.
Visiting County Sligo
A land of mountains, poetry and megaliths
County Sligo, Contae Shligigh in Irish, belongs to the province of Connacht. Its name comes from Sligeach, generally interpreted as “the place abundant in shells”. This name recalls the importance of the bay, rivers and marine resources in local history.
The county covers approximately 1,837 km² and had a population of 70,198 at the 2022 census, according to the Irish Central Statistics Office.
Its territory is relatively compact. From Sligo town, mountains, beaches, lakes and archaeological sites can be reached quickly. This proximity makes it a particularly suitable destination for travellers wishing to alternate cultural visits with outdoor activities.
Benbulben
The iconic mountain of northern Sligo
Benbulben dominates the north of the county with its instantly recognisable profile. Its broad, almost horizontal summit and striated sides give it the appearance of a natural fortress rising above the plain.
The mountain forms part of the Dartry Mountains. It consists of layers of limestone shaped by glaciers and erosion. Its present form is the result of several million years of geological evolution.
The Benbulben Forest Walk explores the foot of the mountain along a loop accessible to most walkers. The route passes through woodland before revealing views of Donegal Bay and the landscapes of northern Sligo.
The ascent to the higher ground is far more demanding. The slopes are steep, the terrain can become slippery and fog quickly reduces visibility. It should be undertaken by a suitable route, with appropriate equipment and a sound knowledge of the mountain.
Benbulben appears in several of William Butler Yeats’s texts. The poet made it one of the symbols of a region where landscapes, mythology and memory constantly seem to intertwine.
Knocknarea and Queen Medb’s Cairn
A prehistoric monument above Sligo Bay
Knocknarea rises west of Sligo town, between the bay and the Coolera Peninsula. Its summit, at approximately 327 metres above sea level, is crowned by an imposing stone cairn visible for several kilometres.
Local tradition presents the monument as the tomb of Medb, or Maeve, the famous warrior queen of the Ulster Cycle. Legend says that she was buried standing upright, armed and facing her enemies.
No archaeological excavation has confirmed this interpretation, however. The cairn, known as Miosgán Méabha, probably dates from the Neolithic period and would therefore predate by a considerable margin the medieval stories recounting the queen’s adventures.
The Queen Maeve Trail reaches the summit along a path featuring steps and wooden boardwalks. The panorama extends over Sligo Bay, Strandhill, the Ox Mountains and the Donegal hills.
The cairn is a fragile funerary monument. It must neither be climbed nor have its stones moved, even to build small decorative cairns.
Carrowmore and Carrowkeel
One of Europe’s most important megalithic landscapes
County Sligo has an exceptional concentration of prehistoric monuments. Located at the foot of Knocknarea, Carrowmore is Ireland’s largest and one of its oldest groups of Neolithic tombs.
More than thirty monuments are still visible there. The first constructions date back almost 6,000 years. The site includes passage tombs, stone circles and burial chambers arranged around the central monument at Listoghil.
Carrowmore was not an isolated cemetery. It formed part of a vast ritual landscape including Knocknarea and other surrounding hills. This complex reveals the existence of communities capable of moving heavy stones and organising their territory around funerary monuments.
Further south, Carrowkeel occupies the heights of the Bricklieve Mountains. Several passage tombs are scattered across the summits, with broad views over the lakes and countryside of southern Sligo.
Carrowmore appears on Ireland’s tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage status as part of the “Passage Tomb Landscape of County Sligo”. It is described by Heritage Ireland as one of Europe’s most important prehistoric landscapes.
Sligo town
A lively town on the banks of the Garavogue
Sligo town is the principal town of the north-western Republic of Ireland. Built around the River Garavogue, it lies between Lough Gill and Sligo Bay.
Its centre brings together shops, restaurants, galleries and pubs where traditional music sessions are regularly held. The town is a convenient base for exploring Strandhill, Rosses Point, Benbulben and the county’s principal megalithic sites.
Sligo Abbey is its most important historic monument. Despite its name, it is a former Dominican priory founded in the thirteenth century. The building retains part of its church, a fifteenth-century cloister and several carved tombs.
The town also has a close relationship with the Yeats family. The Yeats Building houses the Yeats Society Sligo and presents exhibitions devoted to the poet and his brother, the painter Jack B. Yeats.
William Butler Yeats and Sligo
The landscapes that shaped the poet’s imagination
William Butler Yeats was born in Dublin in 1865, but his family was deeply connected with Sligo. He spent part of his childhood with his maternal grandparents and returned to the county regularly.
Lough Gill, Benbulben, Knocknarea and local legends run through his work. The island of Innisfree, on Lough Gill, inspired one of his best-known poems, The Lake Isle of Innisfree.
Yeats died in France in 1939. After the Second World War, his remains were transferred to Drumcliffe Cemetery, at the foot of Benbulben. His grave bears the epitaph he himself wrote in his poem Under Ben Bulben.
Drumcliffe also preserves the remains of an ancient monastery, a round tower and a tall carved cross. The site therefore brings together religious heritage, literature and landscape in one place.
Strandhill and Sligo’s beaches
A wild coast shaped by Atlantic waves
Strandhill is one of the county’s principal seaside resorts. Set at the foot of Knocknarea, the village faces a long beach exposed to Atlantic waves.
The site is renowned for surfing. Several schools welcome beginners, while experienced surfers enjoy more technical conditions when the swell strengthens.
Strandhill Beach nevertheless has powerful currents and is not suitable for conventional swimming. Visitors should follow locally displayed warnings and recommendations.
The village has a relaxed atmosphere, with cafés, restaurants and wellness establishments. A coastal walk also leads to the dunes and the ruins of Killaspugbrone Church.
North of Sligo town, Rosses Point offers a different landscape. This small seaside resort has more sheltered beaches, a harbour and fine views of Benbulben, Knocknarea and Coney Island.
Mullaghmore
A peaceful harbour facing gigantic waves
Mullaghmore lies on a peninsula in the north of the county. Its small harbour, beach and the outline of Classiebawn Castle form one of Sligo’s most photographed landscapes.
The castle was built in the nineteenth century for Henry Temple, 3rd Viscount Palmerston. It remains private property and is not open to visitors, but its profile dominates much of the peninsula.
Mullaghmore is also known in the surfing world for its giant waves. During heavy winter swells, offshore reefs can produce waves several metres high.
These conditions are reserved for an elite of experienced surfers, supported by safety teams and watercraft. They must on no account be confused with the sessions offered to beginners on supervised beaches.
The Mullaghmore coastal loop offers views of Donegal Bay, Benbulben and Classiebawn Castle without venturing into the water.
Enniscrone
A vast beach in the west of the county
Enniscrone lies near the mouth of the River Moy, on the border with County Mayo. The town is known for its long sandy beach lined with dunes.
The coastline is suitable for walking, surfing and various water activities. Enniscrone also has a tradition of seaweed baths, a practice long associated with seaside resorts in western Ireland.
Seaweed is harvested locally and then used in hot-water baths. Rich in natural oils, it is valued for its texture and the feeling of relaxation it provides, without needing to attribute unproven medical benefits to it.
Lough Gill
A tranquil lake among forests, islands and literary memories
Lough Gill stretches east of Sligo town, between the counties of Sligo and Leitrim. Its waters are surrounded by forests and dotted with small islands.
Innisfree is the best-known island because of Yeats’s poem. It remains uninhabited and can be viewed from the shore or during boat excursions.
The lake is suitable for kayaking, paddleboarding, boating and fishing. Several walks also allow visitors to explore its shores and surrounding woodlands.
On its eastern shore, Parke’s Castle lies in neighbouring County Leitrim. This restored fortified house overlooks the lake and can easily be included in an excursion around Lough Gill.
The Caves of Keash
A natural balcony steeped in myth and history
The Caves of Keash open on the slopes of Keshcorran Hill, in the south of the county. This series of limestone cavities overlooks the surrounding plains and the region’s lakes.
The caves have yielded traces of human occupation as well as animal bones dating from the end of the last Ice Age. They also hold an important place in Irish mythology.
Several stories associate them with Cormac Mac Airt, future High King of Ireland, as well as with the adventures of Fionn Mac Cumhaill. This overlap of archaeological discoveries and oral traditions contributes to their distinctive atmosphere.
The access trail is short but steep and slippery in wet weather. Exploring the cavities requires sturdy footwear and great caution.
Culture and gastronomy in Sligo
An identity shaped by literature, music and the ocean
Sligo’s culture is not limited to Yeats’s legacy. Traditional music plays an important role in the county’s pubs, festivals and schools.
Sligo town also has an active contemporary arts scene. The Model presents exhibitions and performances and houses an important collection of works by Jack B. Yeats.
Local gastronomy is closely linked to the ocean. The waters of Sligo Bay provide oysters, mussels, seaweed and fish. Restaurants in the county also showcase lamb, beef, vegetables and cheeses produced in the region.
Strandhill and Sligo town are home to numerous contemporary cafés and restaurants, while coastal villages offer cuisine more directly focused on seafood.
Outdoor activities in Sligo
Hiking, surfing, kayaking and cycling between sea and mountain
The varied terrain makes Sligo a destination suited to many activities. Walkers can explore Knocknarea, the trails at the foot of Benbulben or the hills in the south of the county.
Surfing is practised mainly at Strandhill and Enniscrone. The conditions at Mullaghmore are reserved for big-wave specialists.
Lough Gill offers a more peaceful environment to discover by kayak or boat. Secondary roads are also suitable for cycling, although their narrowness and changing weather conditions require a degree of caution.
Fishing takes place in the lakes, rivers and coastal waters. Rules, open seasons and permits vary according to the species and areas concerned.
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