On Parliament Street, in the heart of Kilkenny’s Medieval Mile, a former brewery tells more than three centuries of Irish history. The Smithwick’s Experience Kilkenny occupies part of the site where the Smithwick family brewed its famous red ale from 1710, in the immediate vicinity of the ruins of St Francis Abbey.
The guided tour traces the medieval origins of brewing before exploring the story of a Catholic family long compelled to operate in the shadows. Reconstructed settings, sensory effects and a tasting come together in an accessible experience located less than a ten-minute walk from Kilkenny Castle.
Smithwick’s Experience – Warren LeMay – cc
The Smithwick’s Experience is at 44 Parliament Street, on the historic route linking Kilkenny Castle with St Canice’s Cathedral. The attraction occupies the former St Francis Abbey Brewery site, closely associated with the Smithwick family for nearly three centuries.
However, it is no longer a working brewery. Commercial production of Smithwick’s in Kilkenny ceased in 2013, and the beer is now brewed at the St James’s Gate site in Dublin. Today’s tour focuses on the history, a recreation of the brewing process and tasting, but does not offer the chance to see industrial production in operation.
The visitor centre opened in 2014, closed in 2020 and resumed tours in 2022. It is now one of Kilkenny’s leading attractions and an original introduction to the city’s craft heritage.
The story begins several centuries before the Smithwick’s brand was created. A Franciscan community settled in Kilkenny in the 13th century and founded an abbey near the River Nore.
Like many medieval religious communities, the friars were skilled brewers. Beer was then a nourishing drink, as well as an alternative to water of sometimes uncertain quality. The monks had the grain, water and knowledge needed to make their own brews.
Part of the ruins of St Francis Abbey remains visible on the former industrial site. These remains lend the tour a particular historical depth, although no continuous production link can be established between the beer of the medieval religious community and the brand founded in the 18th century.
In 1710, John Smithwick joined forces with Richard Cole to develop a brewing business in Kilkenny. The political and religious context made the situation difficult: as a Catholic, Smithwick was subject to the Penal Laws, which imposed major restrictions on Ireland’s Catholic majority.
These laws restricted access to property ownership, public office and various occupations. John Smithwick’s precise involvement in the business therefore remained discreet for a long time, while Richard Cole officially appeared as its owner.
The family was able to claim its business more openly after the gradual relaxation of the Penal Laws at the end of the 18th century. This story links the brewery to the religious and political tensions running through Ireland at the time.
In the 19th century, Edmond Smithwick greatly expanded the family business. He modernised production, broadened its markets and turned the brewery into one of Kilkenny’s main employers.
The family’s activities extended beyond the beer trade. Several of its members took part in the city’s economic, political and social life. Their name gradually became inseparable from Kilkenny, alongside its castle, black marble and medieval lanes.
The brewery weathered economic crises, political upheavals and changing tastes. In 1964, Guinness acquired a majority stake in the business. Smithwick’s later joined the portfolio of Diageo, formed through the merger of Guinness and Grand Metropolitan.
Smithwick’s often presents itself as Ireland’s oldest ale, based on the date of 1710. This longevity refers to the founding of the brewing business associated with the Smithwick family.
Beer was, of course, brewed in Ireland long before the 18th century, notably in monasteries and homes. The expression therefore refers above all to one of the oldest commercial beer brands and brewing traditions still present on the Irish market.
The museum places this timeline within the broader history of brewing in Kilkenny, from Franciscan practices to the industrialisation of production.
The historic Kilkenny brewery ceased production in December 2013. Since then, Smithwick’s has been brewed at St James’s Gate in Dublin, on the same industrial site as Guinness.
The Smithwick’s Experience should therefore not be presented as a tour of a working brewery. The former facilities have been redeveloped to host a cultural tour dedicated to the family, the brand and brewing techniques.
This distinction matters for visitors: the tour lets them smell hops, handle certain ingredients and understand the stages of brewing, but does not provide access to industrial vats currently used to produce beer.
The standard tour, known as the Signature Smithwick’s Experience, is led by a guide. It lasts approximately 45 minutes, and it is advisable to allow a little extra time for the tasting and shop.
The tour combines storytelling, sets, projections and interactive displays. Figures connected to the brewery’s history appear through animated portraits and various staged scenes. The guide adds a local dimension, often punctuated with anecdotes about Kilkenny and the Smithwick family.
The experience remains fairly compact. It does not seek to replicate the scale of Dublin’s Guinness Storehouse, instead favouring a more intimate format in a building directly linked to the brand’s history.
The tour introduces the four fundamental ingredients of beer: water, malt, hops and yeast. Their quality, proportions and the way they are handled determine the colour, aromas, bitterness and texture of the finished product.
Barley is first turned into malt, then crushed and mixed with hot water. This process extracts the sugars needed for fermentation. The resulting liquid, known as wort, is then separated from the grain.
Hops add bitterness and various aromas, while yeast transforms the sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The beer is then left to rest before being filtered, packaged and served.
Sensory displays allow visitors to observe the grains, smell the hops and taste a liquid reminiscent of sweet wort. The aim is to make the different stages easy to understand without becoming overly technical.
Smithwick’s Original belongs to the Irish Red Ale family. Its copper to dark red colour comes in particular from the malts used and their degree of roasting.
This style generally favours notes of grain, caramel, biscuit and light fruit. Its bitterness is more moderate than that of many India Pale Ales, resulting in an approachable and relatively balanced beer.
Smithwick’s has a different profile from Guinness. The latter is a black stout dominated by roasted grain, coffee and cocoa flavours, while red ale is softer, maltier and lightly caramelised.
Visitors to Ireland often encounter two names associated with the same brewing heritage: Smithwick’s and Kilkenny. Recipes and markets have evolved over time, but Kilkenny is generally presented as a red ale related to Smithwick’s, with a creamier texture and an alcohol content that can vary between countries.
Kilkenny Beer is notably served with nitrogen, producing a dense head and a smoother mouthfeel, similar in principle to that of a draught stout.
The tasting offers a better sense of these nuances. As the beers on offer may change, it is best to check the available selection on the day of your visit.
The standard tour ends at the bar with a pint of Smithwick’s included in the ticket. Visitors can choose from the beers available at the time of their visit.
For an additional charge, visitors can replace the pint with a tasting paddle featuring several ales. This option is useful for comparing Smithwick’s Original, Smithwick’s Pale Ale and Kilkenny Beer when available.
Visitors under 18 and those who do not drink alcohol receive a non-alcoholic drink. Proof of identity may be requested before beer is served.
The Masters of Ale Experience is intended for visitors wishing to explore tasting in greater depth. Lasting around 75 minutes, it combines the historical tour with a sensory masterclass dedicated to several beer styles.
Participants learn to observe colour, identify aromas, analyse texture and recognise the influence of malt and hops. An introduction to pouring a pint completes the experience.
The option also includes an engraved Smithwick’s glass to take home. It is exclusively for visitors aged 18 and over.
The standard tour is suitable for families. Despite its theme, it is not limited to beer consumption: much of the experience covers the Middle Ages, the Penal Laws, the history of Kilkenny and brewing.
The projections and sensory effects may hold children’s attention, although the experience is likely to appeal more to teenagers and adults. Under-18s must be accompanied and, naturally, do not take part in the alcohol tasting.
Children under 6 go free. They must still be included in the booking so that their presence is taken into account in the group capacity.
The Smithwick’s Experience is accessible to wheelchair users. Pushchairs and assistance dogs are also permitted, subject to the visit conditions.
Sessions adapted for autistic people or those sensitive to sensory stimulation are offered on certain dates. Lighting and sound levels are reduced to make the experience more comfortable.
Visual guides, sensory maps and adapted equipment may also be available. A companion may receive free admission where assistance is required.
Tours depart at regular intervals, but time slots can fill up quickly during summer, weekends and major events held in Kilkenny. Booking online ensures your preferred time.
The guide’s commentary is mainly in English. Audio options may be available in French, German, Spanish and Italian. Availability should be confirmed when booking.
Allow around an hour on site for the standard option, including the tasting. The shop sells glasses, clothing and various branded items. Some glasses can be personalised or engraved.
The Smithwick’s Experience is located on the Medieval Mile, the historic route running through central Kilkenny. St Canice’s Cathedral, its round tower, Rothe House and the Black Abbey are all within a few minutes’ walk.
Walking down Parliament Street and High Street, visitors can reach Kilkenny Castle in under ten minutes. The museum can therefore easily be included in a day devoted to the city’s medieval heritage.
Want to extend your visit without having to rush around? Here are a few well-located places to stay near the must-see attractions.
Essential information to help you plan your visit, including key landmarks, access information, and booking options.
Parliament Street, Kilkenny, Kilkenny (County Cork) - Republic of Ireland
52.653932, -7.254139
45 minutes
The Signature tour lasts around 45 minutes and the Masters of Ale Experience around 75 minutes. Opening times may be adjusted during events, so check the official calendar before your visit.
Check the opening hours and admission requirements before you leave, especially during peak season or on Irish public holidays.
The Signature tour includes a pint of Smithwick’s for adults or a non-alcoholic drink. Prices may vary according to the date and option selected. Check the official Smithwick’s Experience ticket office before booking.
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